Peponi Hotel, Lamu

Peering through one teakwood door at Peponi Hotel, one faces the Swahili world.

To the southwest, lies an eight mile stretch of soft sand that the locals call crowded if ten people, in all its length, are visible. To the northwest towers the great sand dune where the bleached bones of the dead of a battle 175 years ago still surface when a brisk wind blows.

Two miles due north lies Lamu, a small Arab town still ignorant of cars where streets are just wide enough for one fully laden donkey to pass. The hotel has 25 rooms, with high Lamu style beds, ensuite bathrooms, mosquito nets and ceiling fans.

Rooms at Peponi are divided into superior and standard rooms and all rooms have ocean views. The superior rooms are differentiated by their location, size, private outside area, indoor plants, artwork and Swahili furnishings.

No two rooms are alike. Five of the rooms are built right on the beach, with private verandah areas overlooking the sea, while the rest have a combination of ocean and garden views. All rooms have overhead fans, mosquito nets, showers (no baths), fresh flowers, and personal safes.